Sleeping Beauty is the large crag to the west of Black Widow Slab and on the same side of the canyon. Its imposing northeast face looms above the highway as one drives west past the Boulderado and appears quite impressive from Animal World. The crag is high, atmospheric, and wild. The rock is steep and solid with a surprising array of long cracks and clean slabs that yeild some 20 routes including fine sport climbs. The Main Wall is about 200 feet high and a 60-meter rope is required for rappels. Single-rope rappels can be made down the Crack of Dawn, Mystic Mile, Mind Bender and Lost Highway. Other routes have ring anchors, but require two ropes. Check route descriptions for pitch lengths. The entire crag, including all crack climbs, is published here for the first time.

East Approach. Park across from the Boulderado at 8.6 miles. Boulder-hop across the steam (use the West Side approach if the water is too high). A tyrolean traverse was set across the stream here, fall of 2001, however, it was destroyed by an unknown moron. Scramble up talus that narrows to a footpath and leads to a shoulder beneath the Beer Can. Go left and follow a good path along the bottom of Sleeping Beauty. After about 300 feet, a path cuts back right on Ledge One and brings one to the bottom of the Lower Wall The main trail continues along the base of the cliff and leads to the south end of Ledge Two.

West Approach. Park below Easter Rock (9.0 miles): Walk 100 feet downstream and cross a large fallen tree to a tiny island, then cross a log to the far bank. Follow a footpath (with cairns) up through open forest to the top of the buttress. Note that the trail branches about 50 feet before reaching the highest point. The left branch leads to anchors for routes on the north side beginning with Mind Bender. The right branch leads to anchors for routes on the south side of the wall beginning with Mystic Mile.

The Climbs >>

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